March 3rd: Today it has been raining. So we went to the Plaza Palermo Viejo. The “Lonely Planet” guide calls the suburb of Palermo ground zero for innovative cuisine in Buenos Aires. We found a comfortable white leather sofa in a restaurant aptly named Meridian 58 after its longitude. We began with a bottle of 2004 La Linda Malbec from Mendoza. We thought we would just have some wine and watch the rain and the people, but when a great looking dish went by we pounced. It turned out to be Chop Suey, a dish long abused in North America with celery and corn starch. Fortunately the stir fried vegetables and chicken were lightly seasoned by a deft hand with soy sauce, a sprinkling of sesame seeds, and a mound of radish sprouts: simple, light, elegant. An attractive dessert followed, see the photos, along with cappuccino and a San Juan brandy.

Tango Time

I (Debbie) was determined that we had to see The Tango before we left the country! So I convinced John to go to a Tango club where the Portenos go to dance…not a Las Vegas type show, but more like the local Friday night dance club where you get a floor side table for the night, food and drinks, Salsa and Tango lessons all for??? we are still not sure of the price. Oh, let me mention, this all happens after 9pm… that was the beginning of the Salsa lessons. All the men lined up on one side with all the women opposite and we started with 1-2-3. Very Basic…..Anyway, after a while we got the basic step and rhythm down, or at least I did; John proclaims he has two left feet. The Portenos and most Latin and South American peoples LOVE to dance and it is a JOY to watch. This is a serious part of their culture: from little three year olds on the floor (at 11pm) to older couples in their 80’s the floor was always crowded until they put “rock and roll” on, when everyone immediately got off the floor!! One did not have to have a partner either; men searched the crowd for any single woman who looked like she wanted to dance… and they all did, including me.. but the Tango was too complicated for us to attempt the group lesson and it was so crowded, I couldn’t see the instructor, so we just watched. The reason to go to a milonga (Tango Hall) was not to “pick up” someone, IT WAS TO DANCE —mostly the Tango. It was a bit strange to see 70 and 80 year old men asking 20 year old women to dance and we never saw anyone refuse an invitation! Then, there were the couples who REALLY knew all the intricate steps, turns and moves of the Tango. They flowed around the room in a circular pattern; the women following the mens’ lead as they guided them through the steps: if you want to see the real Tango being danced and can’t make it to Argentina, rent Tango Bar! We finally left the club at 2am and people were still coming in… no one but we Americans would be leaving before 6am!

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