NY Times Review of Noah's Restaurant

DINING OUT; A Seafood Stop on the Way to the Cape

By: Patricia Brooks
August 27, 1995

NOAH'S Restaurant in Stonington is no secret to those who make a regular summer run along Interstate 95 to Cape Cod, as Stonington is a sensible place to make a mid-trip meal stop.

Noah's has been a local hangout for many years. In recent times, though, it has acquired a fresher edge, making it an even better choice than in years past and better value than some of its fancier neighbors. Seafood, usually premium-priced elsewhere, is a fairly priced staple.

There's certainly nothing fancy about this storefront restaurant, lodged in a frame house on the corner of Water and Church Streets. Inside, the only nod to modernity is sound-absorbent gray paneling on the upper walls and tiny garden bouquets on each pink cloth-napped table. In addition to a small printed menu, a large board hangs above the bar with daily specials (a few starters, 9 entrees, 10 desserts).

Most specials and many regular items are seafood, as befits Stonington's water-edge location, and are among Noah's best. A big bowlful of steamers, for instance, evokes the best of summer and sea -- flavorful, briny, totally satisfying. A shellfish appetizer, mussels Josephina, was also simple, but deeply appealing: more than a dozen fat, sassy pearly pink mussels (though several shells did not open), served with a bowl of herbed, garlicky broth for dipping and sipping.

Garlic resonates in many of Noah's dishes, as in sauteed sea scallops (tender and tasty) in a white wine and garlic sauce. Baked mahi-mahi, an evening special, also sang of garlic. The fish itself was nothing special (with so much good regional seafood, why bother with this?), but the herb-garlic sauce was delicious.

Cajun char-grilled catfish sounded right up our alley, fond as we are of this fine-textured, sweet-tasting fish. But the wide black-charred stripes obliterated the fish's innate delicate flavor. Buttery carrots and potatoes boiled in their skins accompanied most of the entrees.

Spicy Chinese noodles, with scallions, sesame and a fiery red pepper sauce made a palate-tingling starter. And as a lunch or dinner entree, consider the daily quiche. Ours was green bean almondine with Swiss cheese, smooth and custardy with a first-rate, buttery crust. At lunch, the bacon-lettuce-tomato sandwich on whole wheat bread had the wholesome homemade taste that makes Noah's a pleasure in an era when so much food tastes homogenized.

Desserts also have that Mom-made quality. This being the berry season, we enjoyed blueberry-enhanced bread pudding and blueberry crumble, with a crunchy streusel topping. Both were served cold; their flavor would have been enhanced if they were slightly warmed, but the fresh-whipped cream was a welcome bonus.

Noah's is a real sleeper for those in search of knowledgeably prepared food at fair prices in a simple, unpretentious setting. A three-course dinner for two came to $41, before tax, tip and drinks. Entree prices include salad (with a good mix of baby greens and ripe tomatoes), a vegetable and starch. A limited wine list (mostly French and American vintages) begins at $11, with many attractive choices under $25.

A LA CARTE

To judge by a recent experience of ours, it would be wise to carry a calculator when dining out, to be put to use when confronted with one of those bills in which tax is added, not at the end, but after each item on the bill. When this happened to us recently, the tax total seemed high, and turned out to be $5 more than it should have been. Diner beware!

Noah's Restaurant - Good
113 Water Street, Stonington. 535-3925
Atmosphere: Down home, garden flowers on tables.
Service: Unsmiling, no-nonsense, efficient and quick.
Recommended dishes: Steamers, green bean-almond-cheese quiche, BLT, spicy Chinese noodles, mussels Josephina, sauteed sea scallops, blueberry crumble, blueberry bread pudding, creme caramel.
Price range: Lunch $4.95-$8.15, dinner $7.50-$17.25.
Credit cards: Mastercard and Visa.
Hours: 7 A.M.-11 A.M. Tuesday through Saturday, 7 A.M.-noon, Sunday. 11:30 A.M.-2:30 P.M. Tuesday through Saturday, 12:30-2:30 P.M. Sunday. 6-9 P.M. Tuesday through Sunday. Closed Monday.
Reservations: Accepted.
Wheelchair accessibility: Street-level access, restrooms through a work area and up a step.